As the Autumn Winter 2016 women's collections draw to a close, we look back on the whirlwind tour that took fashionistas from New York to Paris via London and Milan. The prevailing mood seems to be the lack of a prevailing mood, which can either be interpreted as failure of the designers to capture the zeitgeist (the refugee crisis, Brexit, Donald Trump?) or a triumph of creativity, shows of supreme confidence in the designers' own individual creative genius. We're inclined to side with the latter. Here's our selection of the standout collections showcasing the sizzling creativity from the fashion capitals.
If the devil is in the detail and black is the colour of the devil then Marc Jacobs has clearly nailed the look. In a collection that is daringly monochrome, opulent details from fur trims to beadings were thrown into sharp relief, set off graphically against exaggerated shapes and proportions.
In Milan, change is in the air. With the arrival of a slew of new designers (notably Alessandro Michele at Gucci) came a sense of new found confidence, mainly the confidence to raid your grandmother's wardrobe and mix it up with whatever you find, as long as you add a touch of glamour and maybe also a pinch of irony.
JW Anderson is famously obsessed with interior design. If his Autumn Winter 2016 collection is anything to go by, his home must be an eclectic hotbed of influences, a style magpie extraordinaire. There are playful experiments with ruffles and hems as well as clashing colours and textures which reflect influences from the swinging 60s to the yuppified 80s. Whilst this melange may activate alarm bells with lesser design talent, in Anderson's confident hands the collection is a burst of exuberance, full of joy and beauty.
Mention Chloe and you are likely to have an image of delicate femininity. For Autumn Winter 2016, designer Clare Waight Keller shows a glimpse of the iron fist inside the velvet glove with a collection which combines toughness with femininity. With leather biker suits contrasting sharply with flowing capes and billowing lace, this is a collection designed for the romantic woman with adventure at heart.
Marc Jacob's collection shows how effectively a monochrome backdrop can highlight details. The ABC Bookcase from Saporiti and the Longlegs shelves from Frederik Roije will both showcase your precious ornaments beautifully.
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